THIS SECTION OF HAIRCUTS FOR MEN IS DESIGNED TO PROVIDE TIPS ON GETTING THE BEST HAIRCUT POSSIBLE AS WELL AS THE COMMON HAIRCUTTING TERMS TO ENABLE YOU TO BETTER COMMUNICATE WITH YOUR BARBER OR STYLIST. I'LL START WITH THE TIPS, AND THEN DEFINE THE TERMS.
TO FIND A BARBER, CLICK HERE!
TIPS FOR GETTING A GREAT CUT
Tip 1: Know how to spot a bad haircut. Two of the haircuts below are bad, one is flawless. Here's what's wrong. 1) In the first photo, there is a visible line between the clipper section and the section that was cut with shears and the neckline is blocked crooked and too high. Blending is poor and the cut looks uneven. 2) In the middle photo, there is a highly visible line in the side of the haircut. A properly blended haircut will never have visible lines of demarcation. Here's what's right. In the third photo, there are no visible lines of demarcation, the neckline is expertly tapered and the finishing lines behind and around the ears are clean. After your next haircut, go home and look in the mirror. If you see visible lines, bad blending, or sloppy finishing (blocking, trimming around ears), find a new barber!
Tip 2: Make an appointment. You don't want your barber rushing through your haircut, so find one who takes appointments. This way he'll have enough time to give you a great cut. And for God sakes, be on time.
Tip 3: Be nice to your barber. Do you really want to piss off the person who's cutting your hair? It is amazing just how many people are rude the their barber.
Tip 4: Know what you want and be realistic. Your barber's not a mind reader. Have a clear idea of what you want and communicate clearly to your barber. You can communicate more clearly if you know the terms. Scroll down for a list of common barber terms. Also, don't expect your barber to give you a George Clooney haircut if you've got Anthony Edward's hair. A barber cannot change your hair texture or create a new hairline for you.
Tip 5: Listen to your barber. Barbers are paid to make you look good. If your barber makes a suggestion, give it a try. You may walk out with the best haircut of your life. If you don't like the cut, don't worry.... it'll always grow back!
Tip 6: Know the difference between a blocked and tapered hairline. The examples below show how a blocked hairline can add the illusion of width - not a good thing if you are heavyset or have a thick neck, but probably a good option if your neck is long and skinny. The second set of photos shows a hairline a few days after the haircut. Notice how the tapered haircut looks clean while the blocked cut already looks sloppy.
Tip 7: Find a barber who cuts your style well. Looking for a good barber? Here's the easiest way to find one. Ask. If you see a guy with a great haircut - one that's similar to the style you're looking for - ask him where he got it cut. Just walk right up and say, "Hey man. Cool haircut. I've been looking for a new barber, who cuts yours." Yeah, it might be a bit awkward, but you might just find a great barber in the process. Oh... and regardless of what you might think, the guy will consider it a compliment that you asked.
Tip 8: Don't be first or last. Make an appointment for the midde of the day. Most shops are slower and your barber will have more time to spend. Never try to "squeeze in" at the end of the day. Your barber will be tired and not at his best.
Tip 9: Find a real barber or men's salon. Barbers cut only men's hair, so they've got more practice with it. Often, salons squeeze men's cuts in while another client's color or perm is processing. You'll get better results if you are the focus attention. Also, stylists are trained to create soft, round, pretty styles on female clients. Barbers are trained to create lean, masculine shapes. So, even for longer hair, you're likely to get a better cut at a barber shop or salon which focuses on men's hair.
Tip 10: Tip well. A significant part of a barber's income is tips. The standard tip for a barber is 15% - 25%. Although a barber will never admit it, he will take better care of his clients who tip well, because those clients are taking care of him. Don't tip and you're sure to get a rush job! You'd be amazed at how much more attention you get if you're known to be a great tipper.
Tip 11: Take a picture. I'm not sure why so many men have such a problem with this one, but it you're looking for a new style and you find one you like in a magazine or photograph (or this website), print out a copy and take it with you to the barber. This will help the barber understand exactly what you're after without having to explain it (something we guys are notoriously bad a doing). Just be realistic. If you look like Bill Clinton, a barber can't make you look like Brad Pitt or if your hair has the texture of a pot scrubber, he won't be able to make it silky smooth. The photo will, however, give your barber an idea of what you want so he can create a similar style that works well with your hair and face. Oh, and no he won't think your a girlie man for taking a photo - he'll appreciate the effort. I always do.
Tip 12: Change it up. Some guys get stuck wearing the same haircut forever. Once in a while, change it up a bit. Go for something completely different. Your partner will likely enjoy the change and you won't believe how many people will take note. You may also find a new style that works much better than what you've been wearing. So, take the plunge. It'll always grow back if you don't like it.
HAIRCUTTING TERMS
Once, when I was just starting out, I had a guy sit down in my chair and say, "give me a high and tight." He had longer hair, so I asked, "are you sure you want a high and tight?" He said, "yes." So, I snapped a 00000 blade onto my clipper and ran it completely up the side of his head, shearing off about two inches of hair in the process. At the sight of the bald stripe I had cut out of his hair, he jumped up, and yelled, "Holy shit! Man, are you crazy?" I wasn't crazy, he just didn't know what a high and tight was. I did finish the haircut and it looked great on him. He still wears a high and tight to this day.
NOTE: What is know as one thing in one part of the country can be something dramatically different in another. For best results, ALWAYS have a photo handy to show your barber.
Knowing the right terminology is important to communicating with your barber. Below are common haircut terms:
 |
Arch.
The space above the ear that is outlined with clippers. Many barbers will cut a higher arch into the hairline which will not look good as the cut grows out. The arch should simply enhance the natural hairline. If you prefer a natural arch (one that is not cleanly outlined), you should specify this to your barber.
|
 |
Bald.
A "style" in which all of the hair on the scalp is removed with a razor. This is a popular cut among athletes and men who are naturally balding.
|
 |
Bangs.
The section of hair that falls over the forehead. Can be worn combed down over the forehead, brushed to the side, or brushed back.
|
 |
Blocked Nape.
Blocking is when a visible line is created with the clippers at the nape. This is the most common type of finishing at the neck, but not always the most desirable. The disadvantage of a blocked hairline is that it does not grow out neatly and can make a thick neck look too wide.
|
 |
Bowl Cut.
This haircut was common in the depression era because it was an easy haircut to do at home. A bowl was placed on the head and all of the hair below was removed. This cut (which is also commonly called an "undercut") is popular among young teens and children.
|
 |
Brush Cut.
The sides and back are cut as for a crewcut. The top is cut the same length, about one-quarter to one-half inch over the top, following the contour of the head. The hair is then combed up so that the top resembles the bristles of a brush.
|
 |
Burr.
Hair over the entire head is cut one length, usually 1/8" or shorter. This is the type of haircut that new military recruits receive upon entering the service. This is a good option for someone who wants a no-maintenance haircut.
|
 |
Business Man's Cut.
Most popular among working professionals who require a conservative look. Normally, hair is cut with a slight taper on the sides and back and the top is left long enough to part and comb to the side.
|
 |
Butch.
This is a short version of the basic crewcut. Hair is left no longer than 1/4" on top and neatly tapered around the ears and at the back of the head.
|
 |
Buzzcut.
A general term used to refer to haircuts that are done entirely with clippers. Technically speaking, there is no "official" style which can be called a buzzcut. See the following: butch, burr, brush cut, and crewcut.
|
 |
Caesar.
A semi-short hairstyle made popular by Julius Caesar. The hair is layered to 1" to 3" on top and brushed forward with short bangs at the front. This cut is a low-maintenance style and is ideal for covering a receding hairline.
|
 |
Classic Taper.
Commonly referred to as a short business man's cut or graduation. The hair is left long enough to comb on top and gradually tapers down to 1/8 inch around the ears and the neck. This is a very traditional men's cut that is appropriate for any lifestyle.
|
 |
Crewcut.
Also known as a short pomp or brush cut. The hair is cut short on the sides and back with the hair on top graduated in length from the front of the hairline to the back of the crown. The top hair, from side to side, should form a slight curve to conform to the general contour of the head.
|
 |
Fade.
The term "fade" originated in ethnic shops and has now become the popular term for an aggressively tight taper. Hair at the sides and back is cut as close as possible with clippers and "fades" or tapers up into almost any length on top. In some cases this haircut is mistakenly called a "military reg," which is misleading because each branch of the service has different regulations regarding hair length.
|
 |
Faux Hawk.
This is a basic tapered haircut in which the hair is styled into a point at the center. It resembles a Mohawk, but without the shaved sides. The style can be worn as a Faux Hawk or styled differently for a conservative look.
|
 |
Flattop.
The sides and back are cut similar to a crewcut, with the following exceptions: The hair is cut on top with emphasis on flatness. The hair at the sides of the top are cut to give a square appearance. The photo to the left is a short traditional flattop. Variations include: "Flattop with Fenders," in which the hair on the sides is left longer and brushed back, giving the hair on the sides the appearance of fenders over the wheel of a car; also the "Horseshoe," which is an extremely short flattop with a "landing strip" in the middle. Viewed from the top, the hair resembles a horseshoe.
|
 |
Graduation.
Also refered to as a short business man's cut or classic taper. The hair is left long enough to comb on top and gradullay tapers down very close around the ears and the neck. This is a very traditional men's cut that is appropriate for any lifestyle.
|
 |
High and Tight.
A very common haircut among US Marines, Army Rangers, and athletes. The hair is cut "high and tight" on the sides and back (zero length up to the crown). The top is usually crewcut length and may be blended with the sides or left with a distinct line between the shaved sides and longer top. The sides and back of the head are commonly shaved with a straight razor.
|
 |
Highlights.
In recent years, many men have embraced the use of color to give their style a unique signature. Highlights are achieved by taking small sections of the hair and lightening them. Highlights can be very subtle or extreme. Highlights will give a haircut texture and can help brighten a face and bring out a client's eyes.
|
 |
Ivy League.
Also known as a Princeton. A very clean-cut style named for its popularity among men attending the "Ivy League" universities (Princeton, Harvard, Yale, et. al). Generally, the hair is cut very short all over, gradually getting slightly longer in front. Enough hair is left to part and comb neatly. This haircut conforms to the shape of the head and the emphasis is on neatness. Jerry Lewis wore an Ivy League haircut in "Nutty Professor."
|
 |
Layer Cut.
A popular haircut which is performed entirely with shears. Hair is cut in uniform "layers" all over the head. The cut can be as long or short as desired and can be a very versatile cut.
|
 |
Mullet.
The origin of the term "mullet" has been traced back to the film "Cool Hand Luke." Apparently one of the guys calls people with long, shaggy hair "Mulletheads." The style is popular among soccer players and country music singers. Generally the hair is cut short on top and on the sides, with considerable length left in the back.
|
 |
Pompadour.
A longer version of the classic tapered haircut in which the hair is brushed back and secured with a liberal application of pomade. The pompadour was the signature haircut of Elvis and was quite popular by young "rebels" in the 1950s.
|
 |
Sideburns.
The little patch of hair that grows in front of the ears. Can be worn to any length with almost any hairstyle. The length of the sideburns can also enhance the face. Longer sideburns tend to give a wide face a slimming effect.
|
 |
Shag.
A long layer cut that is cut using a razor to give the haircut a deconstructed (shaggy) look. This is an easy to maintain style and requires only a little product and a good shake to look great.
|
 |
Tapered Nape.
Hair at the back of the neck is graduated to zero length, leaving an exposed natural hairline. Many barbers, stylists and clients, make the incorrect assumption that a tapered neckline is always very short. As you can see from the illustration at the left, a tapered hairline can work quite well on a longer style. This would be considered a "low taper." The advantage to a taper is that, as the hair grows out, the neckline remains natural and blended. This will give the haircut a fresher look longer than a blocked nape.
|
 |
Texture.
Generally, hair is cut to achieve a smooth, uniform effect. Sometimes, texture (a spikey, disheveled look) is desirable. Texture is added to the hair by cutting the ends unevenly using a shear point technique or with a razor or thinning shears. Texture can also be added by the subtle use of highlights. Even the most traditional haircuts can be made more contemporary (if appropriate) by the use of texturizing.
|
|
|
Temple Fade.
Sometimes called a "Brooklyn Fade," "Low Fade," or "Blow Out," this type of haircut is a very low bald fade. The hair is cut to the scalp from the temple and dips low in the back. The hair is then quickly, but smoothly tapered (faded) into significant length on top.
|
|
|
Tramlines (or channelling).
Tramlines are a simple form of channelling (a technique used to create complex lines and shapes in the hair) where lines are created in the hair using an electric trimmer with the edge of the blade against the scalp.
|
 |
Whitewall.
A faded or tapered haircut in which the sides and back have maximum scalp exposure. The term "whitewall" comes from the extremely white skin which is exposed after the haircut, reminding one of the white sides of a whitewall tire.
|
DISCLAIMER: The advice I provide is not intended to be a substitute for a personal consultation with a barber or stylist. Any information or materials posted on this service or transmitted from this service are intended for general informational purposes only. Determining a proper haircut or service depends upon a personal inspection of your head and face shape, hair type, and scalp condition. By using this service, you acknowledge that I am not liable for haircuts or services performed based upon the advice given or content posted on this service. The responsibility and liability for any service performed is that of the client and barber/stylist performing the service.
